Toxicological Evaluation of Saponin-Rich Argan Press Cake Extracts and Their Potential Use in Cosmetic Formulations

Nov 15, 2023, 3:15 PM
15m
The Mohamed VI Museum of Water Civilization (Marrakesh, Morocco)

The Mohamed VI Museum of Water Civilization

Marrakesh, Morocco

Oral presentation - in person Food Food Security & Food Safety and Toxicology

Speaker

Khaoula Benbnidak (Laboratoire d'Agro-aliments, Biotechnologies et Valorisation des Ressources Végétales, Département de Biologie, Faculté des Sciences Semlalia, Université Cadi Ayyad.)

Description

Argan oil, a prized product extracted from the nuts of the argan tree in Morocco, has gained international recognition for its versatile applications in both the cosmetic and culinary worlds. In contrast, argan press cake, while being a byproduct of the oil extraction process, remains less celebrated primarily due to its unpalatable taste. Nevertheless, this underappreciated residue holds remarkable untapped potential, which is crucial for building a sustainable future.

Recent research has uncovered a promising facet of Argan press-cake, specifically its hydroalcoholic extract, rich with saponins, which are known for their bioactive properties and have exhibited positive results in promoting hair growth and skin lightening. Yet, their application remains uncharted territory in the realm of cosmetics due to concerns regarding safety, owing to the antinutrient nature of saponins.

Our ongoing research endeavors aim to bridge this knowledge gap by conducting a comprehensive safety assessment of Argan press-cake extract. This assessment begins with the extraction of saponins using a range of ethanol-water mixtures (0%, 25%, 50%, 75%, and 100%). Detailed characterization of the extract's composition revealed a complex and diverse profile, underscoring its potential multifaceted utility.

Furthermore, a micronuclei test, utilizing Allium cepa roots, was conducted across various concentrations of each extract (0.1, 1, 5 and 10 mg/ml). These tests uncovered that the 70% extract emerged as the most efficient concerning saponin content and yield. Notably, the results also demonstrated a concentration-dependent genotoxicity, with extracts below 0.1 mg/ml exhibiting no genotoxicity potential. This finding suggests that the extract may be suitable for cosmetic formulations, particularly those requiring concentrations for promoting cell proliferation and hair growth (5 µg/ml), as well as skin depigmenting and lightening (50 µg/ml).

In line with contemporary efforts to minimize animal testing and prioritize animal welfare, we explored an alternative computational method using the QASAR toolbox. With its latest iteration as of May 2023, this tool identified potential metabolites, such as hydroperoxides and neutral organics, which could potentially induce adverse skin reactions. This computational approach represents a promising avenue for conducting safety assessments, reducing reliance on traditional animal testing methods while maintaining a rigorous and responsible approach to product development.

These findings not only contribute to a more comprehensive understanding of this valuable resource but also pave the way for its responsible utilization, bridging the gap between sustainability, science, and beauty, and open the door for a wide range of further research and experiments.

Primary author

Khaoula Benbnidak (Laboratoire d'Agro-aliments, Biotechnologies et Valorisation des Ressources Végétales, Département de Biologie, Faculté des Sciences Semlalia, Université Cadi Ayyad.)

Co-authors

Houssam Lakhmili (Laboratory of Agro-Food, Biotechnologies and Valorization of Plant Bioresources. Faculty of Sciences Semlalia. Cadi Ayyad University) Abdelilah EL ABBASSI (Faculté des Sciences Semlalia, Université Cadi Ayyad, Marrakech) Abdellatif HAFIDI (Laboratory of Agro-Food, Biotechnologies and Valorization of Plant Bioresources. Faculty of Sciences Semlalia. Cadi Ayyad University)

Presentation materials